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Out of Town Blog
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Ultimate List Of The Best Hotels in Monte Carlo, Monaco
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Out of Town Blog
On a Sunday morning, I normally would have taken the ‘fast’ train down to South Bombay, but today I wanted to drive through the city. Lin Baba, Gregory David Roberts’s semi-autobiographical character from the 2003 novel Shantaram, wove through traffic on the same streets I would take, smoking chillums with underworld don Khaderbhai and learning how to gun past signals on the back of gangster Abdullah’s bike.
I also wanted to do so in a vehicle that fit the book’s milieu —1980s’ Bombay. I walked past a few empty cabs outside Mehboob Studio, Bandra, before I found a beautifully beat-up Padmini: the kind of ride that lets the sun’s reflection bounce off the asphalt and glitter through the cracks of its underbelly. Whenever the driver braked, it felt like he was pulling on the reins of a fast-moving horse and carriage. We zoomed south, past Haji Ali, where Lin drank late night lassis, past the Air India building, where the lovesick brute made sweet love on the rooftop to his Swiss-American temptress Karla. At noon I screeched to halt in front of Regal Cinema, right on time for ‘Lin Baba’s Colaba, Shantaram Tour: A Convict’s Bombay.’
The bustling Leopold Cafe holds an important place in the book. Photo By: Snehal Jeevan Pailkar/Shutterstock
The walk was hosted as part of the third edition of the India Heritage Walk Festival, an event held in February before the pandemic put a pause on city strolling, featuring over 140 experiences in 44 Indian cities, in collaboration with more than 65 local-level partners. One of them was Beyond Bombay, a niche travel collective that organises concept-based walks, engaging people with the past and present of the cities they call home. I had never participated in a city walk or tour before, and was rather proud of that. Such tours always seemed to be made up of sheep-like groups of people, obstinately gawking on already crowded streets. I’ve often brusquely nudged my way past these human barricades, perhaps muttering a few obscenities for good measure. On the other hand, I rather liked Shantaram. I had read it over a decade ago, long before I moved to Bombay, and figured it might be fun to retrace the absconding Australian’s first steps in the city. Afterwards, I could always pop by Cafe Mondegar for a pint, no matter how the walk went.
A group encircled a woman sitting on the theatre’s steps, and I could immediately tell she was Shriti Tyagi—the head of Beyond Bombay—by the way she calmly pivoted in conversation with the people around her. Twelve years ago, Shriti started conducting such literary walks, what she refers to as “bookworming,” with ‘Lin Baba’s Colaba’ (Shantaram) and ‘Babbanji Bihari Walk’ (based on Suketu Mehta’s Maximum City). I introduced myself and joined in the small talk that always preludes such undertakings. It was effortless, the docent was charming as was her group of explorers, and I began to feel comfortable as my scepticism drifted away. The cluster of walkers was a diverse one. There were mothers and daughters, married folk, a young couple Fevikwik-ed to each other’s sides, an engineer who recently read Shantaram because he was stationed in a remote place with no internet connection, and a linguist—who may or may not have read the book—determined to practise any of the five languages he was fluent in, and two others, German and Russian, which I believe he was learning, with anyone and everyone on the tour.
The walking tour explores parts of Colaba that are as iconic to the city. Photo By: Julian Manning
The writer zoomed through South Bombay in a 1980s fit Padmini Taxi, keeping true to the spirit of the book. Photo By: Skreidzeleu/Shutterstock
There were more of us than I expected, perhaps a dozen. I thought it would be hard to hear Shriti speak, but I could hear her clearly, and even better, she proved to be a master shepherd: “You have to negotiate with noise, movement and everything but one has to figure out places where you can hold conversations with least disturbance and that you have to do at the recce stage,” said Shriti, when I asked her about her approach after the tour. She not only was able to herd us skillfully through the bustle of Colaba, but kept our attention lassoed by her loquacious and revealing insight into an area that scaffolds the narrative of Shantaram. She wove in a couple good Shantaram quotes into her introduction, alluding to ‘sweet, sweaty hope’ and the ‘amphibian-like humidity’ of the city, which was expected, but she also gave context to the area, the alcove that is Colaba, engaging us with the lively atmosphere captured in the novel. Shriti explained, “The idea was to see the city through ‘book eyes’ and see how books based on the city lend themselves to the city and vice versa, while tracing the trajectory of the protagonist through a pocket (of Mumbai).” She elaborated, “Shantaram fit in beautifully because it places itself somewhere between fact and fiction, with the city as a character. You not only reconstruct events set in this pocket, but also talk about the place it occupies in Mumbai, its histories and stories.”
As we ambled under musty awnings haphazardly fixed to deco buildings, Shriti coaxed out the backdrop of Shantaram from Colaba, referencing mill strikes, the strengthening of the underworld, the growth of the slums, and the prevalence of runway tourists.
Her tour engaged us like Gregory Davis Roberts’ writing, walking the tightrope of information and intrigue. It
was a venture that kept pace with the beat of the neighbourhood, negotiating
the literal and figurative flurry and swell intrinsic to the place Lin Baba first established himself in the city.
If we had thrust ourselves into Cuffe Parade’s slums where Lin really began to cultivate local ties to the city, or Dongri’s narrow by-lanes in search of bygone child slave markets, the tour would have been a crass endeavour; but concentrating on Colaba, the city’s proverbial ‘isle of lost toys,’ made sense. Iranis, Nigerians, Arabs, Chinese, Afghans, and a variety of goras have long recognised that Colaba is a place where outsiders can become insiders, so our motley crew was not entirely out of place as we roamed through the area, at ease in an ocean of graceful chaos. Even though so much has changed in this area where Lin Baba made his bones, there are still so many places that pad the tour with a real sense of the story’s backdrop: Irani cafés, colonnaded architecture, Colaba Police Station, Radio Club, Little Arabia, and so on. As Shriti said, “There is enough to see and reconstruct the events and enough to imagine.”
The novel, Shantaram (right), channels the pulse of a foreigner’s Colaba, a busy mixture of late night kebabs (top left) and bustling cafés (bottom left). Photos By: Julian Manning (man, book, café)
We stopped by the bullet-ridden walls of Leopold Cafe & Bar, filled with customers swilling lager and cutting up buff steaks, the once “unofficial free zone, scrupulously ignored by the otherwise efficient officers at Colaba Police Station” where the “business ranged from traffic in drugs, currencies, passports, gold, (and) sex.”
Across the Causeway, we explored a little-known corner of Colaba’s police station where Lin Baba was first detained before heading to his brutal stint in captivity at Arthur Road. We strolled down to Little Arabia, passing perfumeries brimming with auburn mixtures in ostentatious glass decanters, moving towards Lin Baba’s first lodgings, India Guest House. While the exteriors of the guest house may have changed very little since Lin Baba’s time in Mumbai, we walked up to the third floor of a building completely gutted from its former, lackluster grunge. It was now a far cry from the days when Prabaker (Lin’s friend and guide) proclaimed, “Smoking, drinking, dancing, music, sexy business, no problem here,” only to add, “Everything is allow no problem here. Except the fighting. Fighting is not good manners at India Guest House… And dying… Mr. Anand (the manager) is not liking it, if the people are dying here.” At least the sea-facing view remains the same.
We looped around past a Koli fishing village, glimpses of terracotta tile roofs obscured from the shade of surrounding apartment buildings. Then we pushed on, deep into Sassoon Docks, a once salient sanctuary for smugglers. Whatever was left of the morning’s catch now clung to our clothes as we wrapped up the last stop of our three-hour exploration of Colaba. Despite the thick of the afternoon heat, it was impossible not to be completely satisfied by the tour. Even those who hadn’t read the book wore the lazy smiles that come after a well-spent, jam-packed afternoon.
The Sasson Dockyards are deeply rooted in the city’s past, present, and future. Photo By: Iulian Ursachi/Shutterstock
Almost all of Colaba’s Irani cafés are famous for their delicious keema pav. Photo By: Julian Manning
Some of us weren’t ready to say goodbye to Colaba just yet, so we popped over to Cafe Mondegar for an ice-cold beer surrounded by the sound of excited tourists and a blaring jukebox. I’m a stubborn soul, so much that in school I earned the title “Never Wrong Manning” for my obstinacy. But that sweaty Sunday I retired a bias I had long held onto. It amuses me to no end that now, as I’m stuck at home during a pandemic, I constantly dream about taking another of Shriti’s or Indian Heritage Walk’s tours. As Lin Baba says, “If fate doesn’t make you laugh, you just don’t get the joke.”
Out of Town Blog
It’s Tea O’Clock with TWG Tea and Marks & Spencer
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Out of Town Blog
Monsoons in India ripen the mood for a romantic and nostalgic getaway. Escaping to remote waterfalls flanked by misty mountains, lush forests housing a rhapsody of migratory birds or little shacks on beaches to catch puffy clouds and rainy sunsets—our readers do it all. We’ve assembled a list of parks and reserves, ruins and forts, hill stations and a lot more for your next monsoon escape.
Monsoon Recco: Dalhousie, Himachal Pradesh
If you wish to enchant yourself with the beauty that nature hides within itself, a trip to Dalhousie during the monsoons is something you should plan for. An underrated hill station in Himachal Pradesh, it offers a breathtaking view of Khajjiar. A peaceful walk through the forests with a light drizzle will reward you with a cool breeze and an unforgettable experience. Travellers should make sure to make full use of the early morning light, where clouds will act as roommates and guides. Adventure seekers and nature-lovers must visit Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary for a small trek towards the resthouse at the top through a forest that offers delightful views of Dalhousie. Waterfalls along mountains will make you wish to never leave this hill station. From Delhi, one needs to take a train to Pathankot, and from Pathankot, one can take a private taxi or a local bus to Dalhousie. It is about 87 kilometres from Pathankot.
Monsoon Recco: Shantiniketan, West Bengal
My favourite monsoon getaway is Shantiniketan in West Bengal. It is a 3.5 hour drive by car and 2.5 hour train-ride from Kolkata. Shantiniketan, which is otherwise a quaint idyllic place, bursts with energy during the Basanta Utsav (festival of colours) and Poush Mela (their age old annual winter fair). However, for me, monsoons present the best time for a visit, as it is during these months that the town appears at its unadulterated best. There are beautiful home stays and mud houses where one can go and spend a few days watching the rains. Staying amidst nature at its best. The way the red earth smells during the rains in Shantiniketan is something I haven’t witnessed anywhere else. The sprawling greens in monsoon offer ophthalmic therapy.
I would always recommend home stays (especially the ones where they farm and grow their own food) with pools, since swimming in the rain is a magical experience. One can hire cycles and roam around the Viswa Bharati University campus and adjacent Santhal villages when it’s not raining.
Scenic waterfalls and lush green forests can make a traveller’s visit to Vagamon during the rains a picturesque experience. Photo By: explorewithinfo/Shutterstock
Monsoon recco: Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Mumbai, Maharashtra
My favourite monsoon getaway spot is the Sanjay Gandhi National Park in Mumbai. It’s easiest to travel here by the Mumbai local train, with it being an hour away from the suburban part of the city. As I was interning here, I got a chance to see how critters bring the forest to life, at night. Fireflies gleam near the Thane entrance of the park which is right next to Tikujini wadi. Seeing them glow, the city lights glistening in a wet background offered me my first experience of witnessing the alchemy of these species.
Monsoon recco: Banswara
Banswara city is a small district in Rajasthan which is located around 525 kilometres from Jaipur and 165 kilometres from Udaipur. It is also called the ‘City of a Hundred Islands’ since the Mahi river fills during the monsoons, highlighting the numerous small islands. It is easiest to travel here via road from Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat, while the closest railway junction lies in Ratlam, 85 kilometres from the city. Iridescent waterfalls and beautiful hills make for popular tourist sightings, especially in the monsoons, which offer breath to the lush green forests in the city.
Monsoon recco: Meghalaya
I had visited some of the most mesmerising spots in Meghalaya—the place that had first paved the path for my photography career—during the late monsoon of 2019. After heavy rain, the greenery around Umiam Lake adds a lushness to the surrounding landscape. Nohkalikai Waterfall in Cherrapunji is touted to be India’s tallest plunge type waterfall cascading from a height of 1,115 feet, and I will always remember it for its gurgling roar during heavy rainfall. A boat ride in the crystal clear waters of Umngot River in Dawki was remarkable as cold wind and drizzles kept us company throughout. Witnessing the high pressure of Krang Shuri waterfall nestled amid Jaintia Hills was as adventurous as it was rewarding.
Visits to Kabini Forest in the monsoon months may lead to chance spottings of tigers and other animals. Photo By: P.V.R.Murty/Shutterstock
Monsoon recco: Amboli, Maharashtra
When I visited Goa with four friends in August 2017, we found out about Amboli, the last hill station in Maharashtra before the coastal highlands of the sunshine state. So, we set out for a day trip on our bikes to cover the 90-kilometre stretch from Panjim to Amboli. Travelling to this place was just as much about the destination as it was about soaking in the greenery, snaking ghat routes and making pit stops at roadside stalls to indulge in chai breaks. We even stopped by unassuming waterfalls flowing from forests whose names we did not know, and dunked our feet in the streams to shake off the weariness from the journey. When we reached Amboli waterfall, a heavy fog cloaked the region and it started pouring abruptly. But I was equipped with rain protection gear and spent the day photographing the gushing stream and biting into piping hot snacks at local dhabas.
Monsoon recco: Cherrapunji, Meghalaya
The charm of seeing one of the wettest places on earth during the monsoon is underrated. I have visited Cherrapunji from Guwahati (approximately 150 kilometres away) a couple of times but had only been there once with a few friends during a rainy July, when it was devoid of the usual tourist hustle. The Khasi hills that surround the area appear astonishingly green during this time. The forest, pastures, and farmlands come alive. The numerous waterfalls and streams find their momentum due to the continuous downpours. One morning, we went out with a guide to trek the nearby hills to see the living double root bridge in Nongriat village. To reach the starting point of our trek, we drove to Tyrna village and walked through the clouds engulfing the hills, drenched in a slight drizzle.
We climbed close to 7,000 steps up and down during the entire course. Our guide, a local who seemed adept at walking the terrain, frequently waited for us ahead so that we could catch up. It was dark by the time we headed back to our cottage. That evening, we rested in the warmth of the cackling bonfire listening to the rendition of old English songs by few of the fellow travellers. It was a trip to remember for the rest of our lives.
Monsoon recco: Bhandardara, Maharashtra
My connection with Bhandardara found its depth eight years ago when I first travelled there during monsoon. The village, approximately 70 kilometres from Nashik, is nestled in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra’s Ahmednagar district. The natural vistas serve up views of hills, waterfalls, forts, a dam and a valley. There are plenty of options for trekkers, solo travellers or group travellers: the early 20th century-built Wilson Dam surrounded by Sahyadri hills, the 34-kilometre long Arthur lake, and the nearby Ratangad fort. Kalsubai Peak, dubbed the Everest of Maharashtra, rests to the north of Bhandardara’s backwaters. Other attractions include Kokankada point and Sandhan Valley.
The famous Nohkalikai waterfalls in Meghalaya are a favourite monsoon getaway for many. Photo By: Venkateswaran Sivakumar/Shutterstock
Monsoon Recco: Devadanapatti
Devadanapatti is a panchayat town in Periyakulam Taluk, Theni district .This village is located at the foothills of the Kodaikanal Hills. Moongilinai Kamatchi Amman temple is one of the famous temples situated here. A six-kilometre-hike up the top hills of the Kamatchi Amman temple will take you to a scenic waterfall with mesmerising views.
Monsoon recco: Hampi, Karnataka
Hampi is known for its boulder landscapes, fascinating rock formations, and incredible ruins of palaces and temples. During monsoon, the terrain takes on a tint of green, the hot climate turns pleasantly cool, waterfalls emerge near Anegundi—an ancient village situated across the Tungabhadra river whose breathtaking views can be enjoyed from Anjanadri Hill and Matanga Hill. A visit to Tungabhadra Otter Conservation Reserve and Sandur valley surrounded by green jungles is a must. Head to Kamalapur for a dip in the public bath tank. Hampi is a complete package in itself, ideal for lessons in history, architecture, and science of irrigation via gravity, and also loaded with fun treks and coracle rides.
Monsoon recco: Vagamon
Vagamon is a small hill town in Idukki district, and is Kerala’s well-kept secret. It is a true fusion of nature and adventure. A less-explored region, it is a traveller’s gateway to nature in its purest form, away from tourists and a bustling city life. With a never-ending line of lush green hills, it’s a perfect spot situated 1,200 meters above sea level and surrounded by picturesque tea gardens, pine forests, small waterfalls and sprawling meadows.
Vagamon is also host to activities like hiking, trekking, off-roading and ziplining, along with paragliding. With quiet surroundings, and an unexplored landscape, Vagamon is a perfect rejuvenating getaway during the monsoon months.
It takes around three hours to reach Vagamon from Kochi, with the Kochi International Airport located 95 kilometres away. From Bangalore it’s about a 10-hour drive. You can even take a bus till Kuttikkanam and then switch to local transport to reach Vagamon.
Monsoon recco: Kabini Forest
Spread across 55 acres, the Kabini Forest in Karnataka is a vital part of the Nagarhole National Park and one of the few that remain open during the monsoons. The place is known for its serene lakes, valleys and streams. The Kabini Forest Reserve is quite popular among wildlife enthusiasts and adventure seekers, given its accessibility to lush landscape, lakes, and sightings of elephants, tigers, leopards, wild dogs, deers and Indian gaurs. If you’re lucky, you may even spot a black panther! During monsoons, even leopards can be spotted on trees. The nearest airport to Kabini is the Bangalore International Airport, which is 204 kilometres away by road.
Monsoon recco: Valley of Flowers Trek
The Valley of Flowers is one of India’s most famous treks and a great one to take in the monsoons. The Indian government created the Valley of Flowers National Park in 1980. In 2002, it was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The closest metro city to the Valley of Flowers National park is Delhi, luckily, that’s where I hail from. The first stop to the valley is Govind Ghat, Chamoli District, Uttrakhand, that is easily travelled to from Delhi by road. The next stop is Ghangaria, where the actual trek begins. Ghangaria lies at the height of 10,000 feet. From Ghangaria, the road is divided into two parts, one of which leads to the Valley Of Flowers at 12,000 feet, and the other leads to Shri Hemkund Sahib Gurudwara at 15,200 feet. While the Hemkund Sahib is a summer trek, the best time to visit the Valley of Flowers is in the monsoon as it is during these months that the flowers are in full bloom. The entire journey is a magical one with greenery as far as the eyes can see, clouds so close to you that you can almost touch them, and small creeks and waterfalls throughout the hike whose sounds rejuvenate the soul.
Two hikers make their way through the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary in Himachal Pradesh. Photo By: Sondipon/Shutterstock
Monsoon recco: Nagarhole National Park and Tiger Reserve
The Nagarhole National Park and Tiger Reserve in Karnataka is a great place to visit during the monsoons, when its lush green forests come alive, its flora and fauna in mighty abundance and tourists flock to its many homestays and resorts.
Situated 220 kilometres from the south of Bangalore, it is also 90 kilometres from the south of Mysore. There are plenty of State transport buses that you can commute via. The reserve has become the spot for our annual family monsoon vacation. I have a ton of childhood memories of my cousins and me ambling around the forests and the first time I ever drove through the park, it rained. Feels like only yesterday.
Monsoon recco: Sundarbans
For most people living in West Bengal, and definitely for my family, the Sundarbans present the perfect monsoon getaway. The most common entry point into the mangrove forests are through the Godkhali port, where boats of all sizes are lined, waiting for commuters. From Kolkata, which is 74 kilometres away from the Godkhali Port, one can travel either by car, bus or train.
The Sunderban come alive in the rains. Unlike other tiger reserves, Sunderban Wildlife Sanctuary restricts tourists from entering the forest. One has to enjoy the beauty of the jungle, from the boat, which every turn brings with it an air of mystery. You have to remain alert every second if you wish to spot a tiger. Even if you can’t spot a tiger, you will spot the Lesser Adjutant foraging on the exposed mud along rivers or hear the captivating calls of the near-threatened Mangrove Pitta or catch the flight of a Brown-winged Kingfisher. If you closely monitor the water where these creeks and canals meet the river, you may spot the gentle Gangetic Dolphins. During monsoons especially, one may spot the Buffy-fish owl, Mangrove whistler, Ruddy Kingfisher, Mangrove Heron and other rare birds.
Monsoon recco: Amba Ghat, Maharashtra
I keep road tripping to Amba Ghat pretty often. The Mountain Pass on Kolhapur-Ratnagiri road in Maharashtra lies approximately 70 kilometres from Kolhapur city in Sahyadri Mountain Range of the Western Ghats. While it is ideal for a day’s getaway, stay back and explore the nearby temples of Amba, Marleshwar, Ganpatipule or Ratnagiri. History buffs can head to Pawankhind and Vishalgad fort.
Monsoon recco: Mandu and Maheshwar
On the Malwa plateau, with an entrance guarded by waterfalls and narrow gates, lies one of India’s largest citadels. Mandu with its undulating natural beauty of lakes and waterfalls dotted with restored and crumbling monuments comes alive with the first kiss of the monsoons. The rains highlight the romance in the citadel that is ripe with memories of past romances, especially that of a former ruler, Baz Bahadur and Rani Roopmati. Sit on a pavilion made for her on the edge of the plateau, as the veil of clouds lift for you to catch a glimpse of the Narmada below. Experience misty clouds race through the Jahaz Mahal, straddling two lakes, which as the story goes, was a pleasure palace housing a harem of nearly 1500 women!
On days when puffy white clouds fill the sky, hire a cycle or drive to the restored and crumbling monuments, ponds and waterfalls dotting the place. Before the entrance of Mandu at the Alamgiri Darwaza, there is a waterfall overlooking a wide gorge.
Maheshwar with its Insta-worthy ghats enclosing the stunningly carved temples of black rock are another treat to be experienced during the rains, when the Narmada flows full and deep, drowning the lower small temples on its banks. Mandu and Maheshwar are both a two-hour drive from Indore. A hired taxi is the best way to get to get around.
Ambling past lush green paddy fields during the rains is a uniquely delightful experience. Photo By: Thrust design/Shutterstock
Monsoon recco: Lakshman Jhula
My favourite and the most memorable monsoon getaway spot has to be Lakshman Jhula in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand. As I stood on the suspension bridge built over the Ganges, I witnessed the spectacular beauty of the place—with the pitter-patter of raindrops mingling with the rage of the Ganges. As I watched a blanket of clouds gradually descend, splashes of a cool breeze swayed the Lakshman Jhula even as I stood on it, watching the mighty Himalayas ahead of me in the distance. The entire experience was a perfect blend of spirituality, beauty and charm which, especially during the monsoons, makes Laksham Jhula a splendid getaway spot.
From Delhi, one can drive down for seven hours to Rishikesh. The Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun is the closest airport to Rishikesh and there are many flights between Delhi and Dehradun.
Monsoon recco: Kotagiri
We stumbled upon Kotagiri, only because our trip to Vagamon was cancelled due to flooding in Kerala in August 2019.
Driving down from Bangalore, which is about 300 kilometres away, we reached Kotagiri, which is tucked in the lap of the Nilgiris. Surrounded by lush green tea estates, cotton clouds and misty mountains, Kotagiri will ensure your interaction with nature remains pure and undisturbed. Get yourself into a cozy corner, a cup of filter coffee or tea and enjoy this raw, enchantingly peaceful hill station during the rains. Kotagiri has a few breathtaking waterfalls—Catherine being the most famous among them. Trekking up to this waterfall is an adventure by itself. Once, when we were returning from the falls, we encountered a mother bear, who was standing a few kilometres away with her cub. Surely enough, we first backed away slowly and then ran for our lives!
Out of Town Blog
PHITEX 2020, Harnessing Digital Platform for Tourism Businesses
PHITEX 2020 Manila, Philippines — The Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) Philippines invites foreign buyers and Philippine sellers to the virtual edition of the Philippine Travel Exchange (PHITEX) from 22 to 24 September 2020 via www.phitex.ph. With the theme “PHITEX Pivots: Business UNusual”, what makes this year’s PHITEX even more exciting is the hybrid aspect in […]
PHITEX 2020, Harnessing Digital Platform for Tourism Businesses
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Bakthiar Plaza, 6, M.G. Road
Tucked inside a heritage building at M.G. Road in Pune’s Camp area, Marz-O-Rin is the sort of place a couple in a Basu Chatterjee film would pick for their dates. The café opened in 1965, and its no-frills sandwiches, burgers, rolls, and pizzas still retain the simplicity of that time. Try the chutney sandwich, mac & cheese, and chicken burger with their special Zoom sauce, and pick a spot at the arched balcony on the first floor. Marz-O-Rin also serves an array of thick shakes, flavoured milk, fudge (rose almond, red velvet, almond), crumbly biscuits, and pastries. People-watching here is half the joy—college-going teens with textbooks sprawled on the tables, medical reps with their bulging briefcases, an occasional artist sketching away in a corner, and 60-something couples sipping on Lime & Lemoni in their favourite nooks.
Millenium Star, Dhole Patil Rd, near Ruby Hall, Sangamvadi
If you’re a pucca Bombayiite like me and love to start your day with a big fat bun maska, a cup or three of chai, and egg bhurji at an Irani café, Vohuman is the place to be in Pune. Their bun butter jam and egg cheese omelette are stellar too, and old-timers know to order a plate full of cream worth Rs.25 for extra joy. A meal for two with chai needn’t cross Rs.200 here, and the service is remarkably swift. The only thing distracting you while you tuck into that crisp gold egg fry will be the man sitting with a giant vat of butter at the cash counter, merrily prepping a tower of buns.
To eat like a local in Pune try misal at Bedekar Tea Stall (left), and rainbow cakes and cold coffee at Marz-O-Rin (right). Photos Courtesy: Bedekar Tea Stall (misal); Marz-O-Rin (cake)
418, Munjabacha Bole Rd, Narayan Peth
If you’re in Narayan Peth and happen to crave misal, enter the alley where the crowds spill onto the street at all times. The best Puneri misal of the city is served at a humble tea stall called Bedekar, whose pista-green walls and hard-backed seats belie the flavours its kitchen whips up every day since 1947 (they began serving misal in 1961).
Bedekar’s misal stands out because unlike many recipes, it skips sprouts—instead expect generous portions of vegetables topped with fresh coriander. Wait for the server to come around with a steel tumbler and pour their signature sweet-tangy-fiery misal gravy on the bowl veggies; mop it all up with slices of bread—Bedekar’s doesn’t serve pao. Try their kokum sharbat, kairi panna, and sol kadhi too, and the batata wadas if you aren’t already full with misal. If you happen to chat with one of the owners, they’ll coax you to pack some of their special gulkand laddoos—I bought 10 and wished I’d taken more.
394, East St, Solapur Bazar, Camp & Survey No. 35, 1, N Main Rd, Koregaon Park Annexe, Koregaon Park
Every table in this warren of rooms owned by Burger has only three things—fries, cold drinks, and huge burgers oozing with mayo and ketchup. It won’t be easy to score a seat at this low-key joint on the weekend, but if you persevere the reward is one of the city’s best burgers—fillet fish, jumbo chicken, chicken salami, chicken hotdog, or sausage burgers. There’s no going wrong with any of them. They cost between Rs.60-100, and have that homey goodness that fancier chains can never get right.
Shop No. 1166, Tilak Road, Hatti Ganapati Chowk, Near Sahitya Parishad, Sadashiv Peth
Muster a kingly appetite before you step through the doors of Durvankur Thali at Sadashiv Peth. One of Pune’s oldest and best loved Maharashtrian thali joints, it looks like an airy lunch area of a ’70s marriage hall with its plastic chairs and red tablecloth. Durvankur serves different dishes during the week and on their Sunday special. Whichever day you pick, know that you’ll be served with an endless array of roti, bhakri, dry vegetables, gravies, kadhis, fried chillies and other steamed goodies, dahi vada, papad, pickle, and varan bhaat. Their desserts—be it sheera, aamras, shrikhand, or gulab jamun—are best enjoyed with a good look around the place; waiters whizzing past with giant serving bowls and septuagenarian bhaus donned in white dhotis and Nehru topis, pouring ghee over their little hills of rice, making your meal only sweeter.
Established in 1965, Marz-O-Rin café is tucked inside a heritage building in Pune’s Camp area. Photo Courtesy: Marz-O-Rin
Plot No. E1, E2 Hiremath Park, Kalyani Nagar
Fairy lights stringing the facade of a heritage bungalow, a boutique store on the ground floor, potted plants everywhere, and a restaurant serving fusion organic food at the rooftop: Paashh has elegant-chic written all over it. The menu flaunts drinks like banana thandai and sandalwood watermelon cooler, and golgappas with quinoa. One meal later, I see how Paashh delivers on every front—the freshest produce, delicate flavours, and a little twist in every dish elevate even the most widely served recipes. Their kebabs are made of miso glazed pumpkin and coriander pesto; the risotto is delicious with black rice, green peas and truffle. For dessert, whether you choose saffron poached pear with blue cheese ice cream, or almond peach pie with cardamom, you know that you’re going for seconds very soon.
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Fort Kochi’s quietude is a respite for those seeking to escape madding city crowds. What’s not to like about its hipster cafés, Instagram-worthy Chinese fishing nets, and narrow lanes festooned with colonial-era homes?
But the stories that the town’s lifelong-resident David Lawrence loves start in a different time. “Until the early 1990’s, Fort Kochi was strictly a residential area.” For a kid growing up in the 1960’s, life was organised and simple, he adds. “Four schools, a playground, and general stores were a stone’s throw away.” It was not until the 1970’s that provisional shops and restaurants were introduced in Fort Kochi.
Families like his made their way to Parade Ground in the evening, where children played cricket, football or hockey, or simply cheered for their favourite local club. The four-acre space is still the largest ground in town and was once the site of military parades and drills conducted by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. Today, it is a barren patch.
The coastal town is a melting pot of rich local culture. Photo by: Nejdet Duzen/Shutterstock
To Lawrence’s relief, not all his old haunts are lost. On Sunday, he would set out on a leisurely stroll down Princess Street, Rose Street and Burger Street—all bustling with residences of the Anglo-Indian communities. Eighties music wafted from the windows, along with the aroma of freshly made curries. Most owners have sold the properties and settled abroad, but the 63-year-old still drops by for strolls. It has bronze stucco walls and peeling plasters, and the structures now house cigar shops, souvenir stores, art galleries and cafés have altered it. Loafer’s Corner—a popular meeting place at the confluence of Princess Street, Peter Celli Street and Bastion Street— is a good place to sit down for coffee, fresh juice and homemade cakes after a walk.
Lawrence’s favourite food is his wife’s home-cooked meals. “I come home and complain after eating out because the flavours have been adapted to the Western palate,” he chuckles. “I like my spices.” Of the few joints that do justice to the region’s cuisine, Lawrence loves Oceanos, a garden-view restaurant which serves great seafood. Fusion Bay, known for its Syrian-Christian delicacies, is also a must visit. It has lip-smacking fish preparations and good vegetarian options too. Fort House, the restaurant at the eponymous family-run hotel, offers waterfront views and delectable prawn mango curry on the menu. The Old Harbour Hotel, a 300 year-old building with Dutch- and Portuguese-style architecture, serves dishes made with organic produce and fresh catch from the sea owing to its proximity to the Chinese fishing nets.
Lawrence often covers the area’s biggest landmarks on his walks. The Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace) lies three kilometres from his house (in Kochi), but he likes to take in the double-storied structure that’s home to a fine collection of murals from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The 16th-century St. Francis Church, believed to be India’s oldest existing European church, is also the burial site of Vasco da Gama before his remains were moved to Portugal. “The road down takes me to the Dutch Cemetery. It is a very cultured locality.”
David Lawrence (inset), a lifelong resident of the region, loves taking leisurely strolls along the routes that feature heritage buildings and structures showcasing European architecture. Photo by: Dmytro Gilitukha/Shutterstock
Lawrence was one of the first residents to open a homestay when backpackers began flocking to Fort Kochi. Delight Homestay, a 250-year-old Dutch bungalow, opened its doors in 1994 to welcome European tourists. “We did not have Indian travellers visiting at that time,” says Lawrence. When they eventually did, the town experienced a tourism boom and opened more homestays. Luxury hotels mushroomed and international flights came soon after. It became a Rubicon for contemporary Kochi; locals began talking of a “before” and an “after.” But no matter how much Fort Kochi changes, Lawrence says he has never tired of his seaside home.
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“In my little town of Shillong, things have changed,” begins Lou Majaw, a parental affection for the home of over seven decades softening his deep-bass voice. There have been two constants in the life of the Khasi musician monickered ‘Bob Dylan of India’: music and Shillong. The first he dabbles in daily, lockdown or not. Of the second, he harbours memories—and a deep, consuming concern.
“In the 1950s and 1960s, Shillong was truly Scotland of the East. Between the 1970s and 1990s it became India’s rock capital. But now it’s a hawker’s paradise, and the greens are also going,” explains the 73-year-old. Majaw refuses to point fingers at the usual suspect of overtourism, instead choosing to shoulder accountability as a local. “A place is its people. Back in the day, you could find a nice frame in every other house, with the words ‘Cleanliness is next to Godliness’. Now people litter, sell their land for money, and cut down trees to park their cars,” he rues.
Sure, one can still marvel at the velveteen golf course, breath lighter in Lady Hydari Park or meditate in the watery calm of Ward’s Lake, but by and large, unchecked real estate growth has led to nature retracting from the northeastern city. “Some places are still pretty cool, so you come after this plague is over,” laughs the musician, listing haunts of choice. The Evening Club, a 1958 bar-cum-restaurant in the bustling heart of Police Bazaar, where blues, rock, folk and reggae find place on the menu; Cafe Shillong, the quaint eatery where local musicians, including Majaw, liven up sweeping views of the East Khasi Hills with Sunday performances; Trattoria, also in Police Bazaar and serving delectable Khasi fare; The small, nameless diners and jadoh stalls sprinkled across the city, best mapped out with a local; and an out-of-town bonus—Mei Duh eatery in Umsning village, “on your way from Guwahati to Shillong.” Majaw, obstinately youthful in his shoulder-length hair and short-shorts, suggests moving beyond Smit and Sohra for a real taste of paradise, after a jaunt around Shillong’s food and music hubs. “The air will be clean, and the treks wonderful.”
Shillong’s indigenous culture is lush with tribal song and dance forms (bottom right); Quaint cathedrals (top left) nestled in the hills hark back to Shillong’s serene past; Musician Lou Majaw (top right) is as much in love with the sounds of nature, as he is with music and performances (bottom left). Photos By: Michal Knitl/Shutterstock (people), S B Stock/Shutterstock (Structure); Photos Courtesy: Lou Majaw (man, band)
The want of air as clean as that of his childhood made Majaw turn to face masks about a decade before the pandemic struck. “You might even see a tear in mine, it’s so old,” he jokes. Growing up in the ’50s, one of his favourite spots was the Wah Umkhrah, its water so clear that one could see their feet and small, wiggling fish. “I’d go for cool dips with my friends,” he recalls. The Umkhrah River is now a shadow of its former self, sewage water from the city feeding into it despite the occasional clean-up attempt. “Another place was a small hillock on the edge of the golf course that we called Sunset Valley. Just climb up there with our smokes, radio, guitar and a little picnic, and watch the whole valley,” Majaw reminisces. But it’s not all grim news, for the lockdown that put music on long pause has also replenished nature’s sounds. “You wouldn’t believe it, the birds and crickets have started chirping louder in these past four months.” If Majaw had his way, every house would have at least two trees—a tree for the birds, and for eating and selling (fruits). And a Christmas tree so you don’t have to chop-chop in December. “No tree, no house.” “It can still change,” says the radio buff, who admittedly survives on hope. “Lou Majaw is lucky. When he wakes up at 5 a.m., the sun still trickles into his little house in Mawlai Phudmuri—baby, that’s a blessing,” the homeboy trills, referring to himself in third person quite comfortably.
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Cycling is a passion and a unique way to explore his city for 58-year-old Arvind Chenji. Having lived in Hyderabad all his life—“brief stints in other cities don’t count”—he’s seen it grow remarkably to reach its current tech city status. “I remember a time when almost everybody cycled to commute. It wasn’t uncommon for cycles to be given as dowry,” smiles the cyclist.
One of the organisers of the Hyderabad Racing League, Chenji has been cycling across and around Hyderabad since 2012. The hobby has opened him up to this hometown in ways he couldn’t have imagined if he were to explore it on foot, or with the speed of a car. Best of all, it is cycling that has given Chenji some of his closest friendships in life. “We’re a big group that goes for weekend rides and long trips,” he says, adding that they’re unapolomeccaic foodies and don’t think twice before making the 40-kilometre round trip to the village of Kowkoor for fluffy idlis and crispy bhajias at Vijay Tea Centre. Within Hyderabad, Chenji & Co. regularly cycle to Subhan Bakery in Nampally for Osmania biscuits, Ram ki Bandi near Charminar for buttery masala dosas, and Rio’s at Patny Cross Road for Irani samosas.
For those who are just beginning to cycle in Hyderabad, Chenji recommends that Necklace Loop familiarise themselves by starting with the 10-kilometre Necklace Loop around Hussain Sagar Lake. “And the 4.5-kilometre ride around K.B.R. National Park in Jubilee Hills is great if you want to get used to hilly terrain; it has the added benefit of being able to step inside for birdwatching and jogging,” explains Chenji. If you want to give your lungs some serious exercise, cycle up the deceptive one-kilometre Whisper Valley near Old Bombay Highway—with two turns and one very steep curve, this is not for the faint of heart, warns the cyclist. And lastly, one of Chenji’s favourite rides is the 50-kilometre round trip to the town of Medchal and Shamirpet village. “Go via the highway—there is not much crosswind—and all around you is undulating terrain and hills. We often veer off to enter by-lanes, and even stumbled upon an old emu farm here.”
For Hyderabad resident Arvind Chenji (left), cycling is a passion, and a way of meeting new people. Apart from long trips, they also cycle to Rio’s at Patny Cross Road to eat Irani samosas (right). Photo by: Rafal Cichawa/shutterstock (samosas), Photo courtesy: Saikat Mondal (cycle)
Cycling is a way of life for Chenji, something that bonds him and his family to Hyderabad irrevocably. His family is filled with cyclists, including his son who won the silver medal for a 120-kilometre championship organised by the Cycling Federation of India in 2016. “I’m glad the bicycle is making a comeback, and hope is becomes the new normal for commuting post-lockdown,” signs off Chenji.
