Saturday, April 11, 2020

Birding from the Balcony April 11, 2020 at 08:42PM

On the Sunday of the junta curfew last month, when most of India was gearing up to clang vessels and clap hands, Omkar Dharwadkar experienced a different sort of epiphany, through a different kind of sound. From the window of his apartment complex in Ponda, North Goa, through his binoculars he espied a Malabar whistling thrush. The deep blue bodied bird with its uncannily human whistle was a surprise visitor to that part of the state, a bird he hadn’t seen in six or seven years. Now here it was, singing from a tree nearby. “Right in the middle of the city, to see a forest bird is always exciting,” he said. The bird continued to visit for the next several days.

 

Fine Feathers

As India has been locked down in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, Dharwadkar, a birding guide, has sighted 35 species of birds from his apartment window alone. On an average, he records about 10 species for every 15-minute period he sits by his window in the morning.

He is just one among hundreds of birdwatchers across the country pursuing their hobby from the confines of their bedrooms, balconies, terraces and gardens. As people have been sequestered behind walls, avian life has been soaring, nesting, and calling, providing diehard birders opportunities to revel in old pursuits under new circumstances.

“Birding from home is a new experience for most of us,” said Amit Sharma, a veteran birdwatcher who has been watching with his family from his balcony in Gurgaon. “It’s a blessing in disguise. Being forced to stay home, we started observing birds, even those birds that you often miss.”

As people have stayed in, factories have wound down, traffic has vanished, and noise pollution has dipped, birds have become louder and bolder. With mating season for some species in north India, and migratory season for some others, the time of year itself is ripe for birding. People have reported seeing a smorgasbord of species: eagles, bulbuls, thrushes, woodpeckers, buzzards; throaty critters filling the air with chirps, trills and hoots.

 

Theme: Lockdown Birding

Bird Count India, a consortium of various groups, dedicated to bird-related activities and documentation, has been running a competitive challenge where birders can upload their sightings through the platform, eBird. This is based on how many birds you see during a timed 15-minute stretch in the morning and the evening. Though the challenge is a monthly affair, this month’s theme has naturally been “Lockdown Birding”. Mittal Gala, Bird Count India’s coordinator, said about 300 or 400 people had been uploading their sighting lists online every day.

“People are excited, sharing sightings, lots of interesting things are happening,” she said.

Gala, who lives in Bengaluru, has been birding for more than 10 years, but until now had little opportunity to do it from home. “I’ve been addicted to my balcony every morning,” said Gala. “When I hear a bird calling, I rush out from my room with my phone to record the call.”

Has she been surprised by the richness of home birding? “Yes!” she said, “A lot of people are. I don’t think anybody would give you a different answer.”

Brigadier Arvind Yadav for instance, has spotted 49 species over two weeks, including the honey buzzard, ashy drongo and spotted owlet. Every evening Yadav and his fellow bird watchers recount to each other online the birds they’ve seen in each of their Delhi neighbourhoods.

Some days ago when he saw a booted eagle fly across the patch of sky above his home, he felt a frisson of excitement. Fifteen days ago they had tramped all the way to Sultanpur, outside Delhi, and seen it in its natural habitat. Now here it was, coming to him in his natural habitat. “Seeing it in the Delhi sky was rare,” he said. “It was quite a new experience.”

He is lucky that his home is in a colony that abuts the greenery of the Delhi golf course. “Since there is such little human activity birds are openly nesting and feeding,” he said. “The weather is good, there is less pollution and we also have more time to see them. When you are in the normal daily rut, who has the time?”

Birding from the Balcony

Photos by: Omkar Dharwadkar

A New Urban Jungle

Normally birdwatchers have to take off to wooded urban edges or travel to lakes and forests in order to encounter nature head-on. But the limitations have unspooled fresh pleasures, syncing them to their immediate surroundings in serendipitous ways. “It’s fun in a different way,” said Dharwadkar. “You see more when you go out in a forest, but this way you get to know the birds in your own backyard better.”

It’s not just that the birds are becoming brassier, but that human beings, thrown into new rhythms, with fewer distractions, are also absorbing the world in more quietly intimate ways.

“Especially if you are birding from one location every single day, you start noticing patterns,” said Gala. She has not just been recording her sightings but sometimes following the same birds or group of birds over days, observing their tics and turns: the nesting of a black kite on a building next door, the bulbul’s insatiable interest in the gulmohar flowers.

In Gurgaon, Amit Sharma has been savouring the visits of tailor birds, barbets and shikras. Shyer birds like spotted owlets, usually in hiding, are now emboldened to thrust themselves into the open. “The birds may not always be new, but I am able to study them more closely—their plumage, their behaviour, their nest-building—and understand them better,” he said.

And the birds have also brought the humans together. “It’s such a wonderful experience sitting with family, with children,” said Sharma. “It’s a great way to spend time together and educate the new generation.”

 

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Easter Five Ways: Stories from Indian Home Kitchens April 11, 2020 at 08:29PM

Get, Set, Goa

As a newly-married Goan in the 90s, Sandra Sequeira started the routine of rustling up rootsy Easter spreads for her family of four. Sorpotel, made with Goan masala, pork blood, and little-not-too-much vinegar to distinguish it from its East-Indian version; chicken cafreal, earthy green and aromatic; Portuguese-style pork sausages; Goan peas pulao, and crumbling white sannas (ground-rice cake) secured safe stations at the table. All family recipes from Assagao but for the wildcard—stuffed chicken. The chicken, dangerously packed and sewn up with trussing needles, owed its somewhat Western flavour to cookbooks come home from husband Richard’s voyages with the merchant navy. While the stuffing of ham, salami, liver, gizzard, peas, carrot, and deep-fried bread crumbs—dunked nice and spicy in a green chilli paste—can be linked with the dish’s annual success, Sandra maintains the trick is “basting repeatedly, so the skin doesn’t dry up”. Throw in the sweetness of marzipan moulded into chicks, bunnies and flowery bonnets, and the lunch acquired an immovable character over the years, predictable and reassuring. Never mind then, the beef assad (roast) or fish caldine, community favourites that rarely made the menu. “I like to start early, with dough for the Easter eggs,” Sandra circles back. There’s a lot to do, and no room for surprises. 

 

Memories of Mangalore

“I was only 17 when I left Mangalore,” laughs Leena Pereira, hinting that good recall is a great friend, especially in a kitchen without one’s mother. The pork masala/bafat, and chicken roce curry—slow-cooked to decadence with a surfeit of coconut milk—were inherited recipes. Invented, for all purposes, along India’s Carnatic coast, who-knows-how-many years ago. But with at least 30 springtime feasts to her credit, Leena can vouch that they were perfected in her kitchen, assisted by ballpark measurements and memories of Easters past. For the present, there is the added comfort of sannas made from scratch, pork masala and vindaloo, channa masala, jeera rice, and a beetroot-onion-cucumber salad tossed in vinaigrette. As with the roce curry, cooked using one whole coconut and individually roasted spices, patience is essential to acing the Easter eggs, preparations for which starts a week in advance. “Ground cashew and almonds, mixed in rose water, sugar, and vanilla essence, stirred and sweetened over low flame,” Leena sums up. Tip: Use quality cashew and leave the crazy flavouring for the “commercial kind”. What good is an Easter treat that doesn’t taste like home?

 

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Quality cashew and affectionate icing are the secrets to handsome Easter eggs. Photo By: Nitin Chaudhary

A Syrian Christian Spread

What Siby Vincent does, he does well. And what the 39-year-old does every Easter morning is cook up a big breakfast. “You are ending the Lenten fast, so breakfast is important”. Breakfast means appams, with spongey-white middles and crisp, goldened edges, broken and dipped into XL mouthfuls of chicken stew. It also means springing the family special—Kerala egg roast. The recipe has traversed landscapes with the father of two, starting from his hometown Chengannur in Kerala’s lush Alappuzah district. Made with duck eggs and cooked in coconut oil for best results, the dish hinges on the glory of its dry-gravy falvoured with onion, tomato, ginger, garlic, black pepper, chilli powder, coriander powder, and garam masala. “It is on the spicier side, and complements the subtlety of the stew,” Siby explains. Breakfast out of the way, all eyes are on lunch, usually a potluck cooked up between his wife, mother-in-law, and him. Siby’s contribution, the roast chicken, is relatively new to the game. But it’s a winner as far as the kids are concerned, who “have a lot of fun carving the bird”. And if you’re wondering what excites him, Kerala-style mutton gravy and Malabar porotta by his mother-in-law, or banana and chocolate-walnut cakes from his wife’s baking station, Siby is admittedly partial. “I’m a big fan of the crispy skin of the chicken.”

 

East Indian Aroma, Bottled

The East Indian bottle masala has 32 spices, and there’s a bottle masala for everything,” says Mercia Almeida, of her coastal culinary heritage. The Almeida household, in Mumbai’s Western suburbs of Bandra, sees relatives gather from as far as Hyderabad, so naturally Easter is big and busy. The typical menu showcases the East Indian sarpatel, darker, sharper, tangier than its Goan rendition for an abundance of vinegar, bottle masala, ginger-garlic and green chilli. The crackling taste pairs marvellously with slightly-sweet deep-fried dough called fugia. Now fugia is to the East Indians what sannas is to their Goan or Mangalorean friends—the George Michael number to an 80’s Catholic party, if you will. Besides the sarpatel, fugias are also essential to accentuate the intense meat flavours of the pork tamriad, chicken khudi, and the sweeter, coconut-milk flavoured beef lonvas. “All kinds of meats must be represented at the table,” jokes daughter Nerissa, who is in charge of decorating Easter eggs. While an East Indian green masala called purish yields aromatic curries, some white pumpkin, radish and potatoes thrown into the lonvas makes all the difference. “There was a time when some women from the community went door-to-door pounding whole masalas dried in the hot sun, now we mostly buy it,” recalls Mercia, adding that a bottle can last anywhere between a year and two. 

 

AngloIndian Jingbang

Growing up in the Railway Colony of Tiruchirappalli, Harry MacLure was always aware of his Anglo-Indian roots. “We are a small, stateless community, so be it Easter menu or something else, the highlights remain largely the same,” reasons Harry. Some might call it yellow rice and some coconut rice, and the meatball gravy, made with beef and a staple on the Easter menu, might be nicknamed kofta curry in Calcutta. The fiery red Anglo-Indian chutney, another Easter suspect, comes with some misleading monikers. “It’s called hell’s flame, and/or devil chutney, but really it is not that spicy,” says the 60-year-old currently based in Chennai. Vinegar and sugar react with red chilli and onion to give the chutney its considerable colour and reputation. If you’re still burning up, there’s always the eggy-sweetness of caramel custard or cool swigs of homemade ginger wine. The Ginger wine, code-named O.T. (for ‘Other Thing’), is a time-tested measure of how much people are enjoying themselves. “In the 70s, we could go to a colony hall and dance till the morning,” reminisces Harry, “but Easter is certainly more about the food and the fellowship”. It’s what puts the bang in the ‘jingbang’—community parlance for a whole lot of people making merry.

 

To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller India and National Geographic Magazine, head here.

World tourist trap Italy turns into a coronavirus no-go zone April 11, 2020 at 07:25PM

Tourists from across the world flock daily to Italy to marvel at its art-filled cathedrals and Roman ruins. But the rolling hills of Tuscany and the ancient city of Pompeii have looked almost abandoned since the coronavirus pandemic turned the Mediterranean country into a strict no-go zone.

Taoid: A Museum on Cordilleran Culture April 11, 2020 at 05:35PM

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Beginner Tips for Work-from-Home Setup April 10, 2020 at 09:50PM

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