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Ladles clink against cast iron woks, knives slice through crisp greens, marinated meats sizzle on griddles. Such daily behind-the-scenes choreography in commercial kitchens is routine for chefs who strive to plate perfection. But, on their day off, when they hang up those aprons and toques, where do they go to eat—and what do they chow down? Seven chefs let us in on their favourite food joints across India, from glitzy five-stars and quirky standalones to hole in the walls that need no reservations—just an appetite to stomach it all.
Picks: Delhi
When not sprucing up Indian delicacies with global influences, Manish Mehrotra is busy digging into oriental flavours. The China Kitchen at Hyatt Regency Delhi is the chef’s “favourite place to catch up with friends over an authentic Chinese meal.” Their steamed dumplings of red chilli filled with coriander shrimp mousse served with ginger soy is Mehrotra’s go-to order, as is their chilli-spiced soft, sweet prawns. For a traditional Kashmiri meal, he turns to Chor Bizarre, a restaurant near Delhi Gate. The interior is kitschy and seating options include a four-poster bed, a sewing machine and even a model of Fiat 1927. Here, Mehrotra recommends a plate of palak patta chaat, a sweet yoghurt and tamarind-based crispy spinach fritter preparation. For mouthwatering portions of mutton tikka and kebabs, he swears by Sab ki Khatir, a nearby hole-in-the-wall takeaway, and for snacks, the entire chaat menu at the street-side Vaishno Chat Bhandar in Kamla Nagar.
Chef Manish Mehrotra (top right) frequents Chor Bizarre (bottom right), a Kashmiri joint based out of Delhi. For a taste of oriental flavours, he prefers The China Kitchen (left) at Hyatt Regency Delhi. Photos courtesy: Manish Mehrotra (self), Hyatt Regency Delhi/Facebook (dumpling), Chor Bizarre (interior)
Picks: Bengaluru
Manu Chandra, who featured in Fortune’s 40-under-40 list of entrepreneurs, has introduced Mumbaikars to household names such as Fatty Bao, Monkey Bar and Toast & Tonic. He’s naturally busy, but when he does find himself in Bengaluru, it’s customary to visit Toms, an old unassuming Mangalorean restaurant on Brigade Road. After decades of holding sway in the same place, the restaurant recently moved to a new location in Kormangala 8th Block. But the food is still the same: simple, consistent and packed with flavours. “Don’t miss their Mangalorean sorpotel, chilli prawns, beef fry and the sannas (rice cakes),” Chandra advises. “They also have pocket-friendly thali options, and are efficient in delivery.” Its central location makes it rather easy to get to. But that’s just an add-on—this one is worth going that extra mile for.
Picks: Delhi & Mumbai
The UK-based chef has been busy plating up northeast Indian specialities for diners at Kanishka, his latest venture in London. But ask him about his favourite food joints back home and he’ll reminisce of gluttonous trails in Delhi and Mumbai. Karim’s, around Delhi’s Jama Masjid, tops his list. The no-frills restaurant established in the early 20th century is a culinary destination in itself, serving Mughlai delicacies such as charcoal-roasted mutton kebabs, fiery mutton nihari, creamy butter chicken, and some lip-smacking biryani. He also frequents Kake Da Hotel in Connaught Place that dishes out a homely dal makhani, tandoori chicken and rogan josh. Mumbai’s Bademiya, situated in two prime locations—as a food stall in Colaba and a restaurant in Fort—is another of Kochar’s favourites. When in Mumbai, he usually finds it hard to resist Bademiya’s succulent seekh kebabs, oily mutton korma and their sinful, slow-cooked dum biryani. To round off the meal, he votes for matka rabdi.
Atul Kochhar (right) strongly favours sampling the rogan josh (left) in Delhi. Photo courtesy: Atul Kochhar (self), Photo by: News Life Media Pty Limited/StockFood/indiapicture (rogan josh)
Picks: Mumbai
Pastry chef Pooja Dhingra has whipped up some mean macarons, giving dessert cravers a taste of Paris in Mumbai. On a lazy day, she frequents Birdsong Café in Bandra, a hipster joint with bricked walls and arched windows, which serves organic fare: think red rice masala dosa, tofu scramble and Vietnamese vegan sandwich. “I generally like going there for breakfast and enjoy the vibe of the place. My favourite things to order there are the akuri and hot chocolate,” she says.
Picks: Kolkata & Mumbai
Before taking up a gig at the Trident in Mumbai, Saurav Banerjee helmed the kitchen of a Kolkata five-star. His picks are split between the two metros. For a plate of rava dosa, he recommends heading to Banana Leaf in Kolkata, while Beijing in Tangra, he says, is to be trusted with their serving of ‘drums of heaven,’ an appetiser of fried chicken wings tossed in Szechwan sauce, with a side of delish green chutney. Badshah in New Market is a safe bet for chicken and egg rolls. When it comes to Bengali desserts, Saurav places his money on Gopinath in Sakher Bazar for kheer kadam (milk, saffron and khoya mix laddus) and kancha golla (cottage cheese balls kneaded with sugar), as well as Vien at Theatre Road for some of the best rasgulla in town. In Mumbai, the chef lists Ram Ashraya in Matunga for its idlis and rasam vada, and Jia, next to the Gateway of India, for their Chinese-style soft shell crabs.
Mumbai tops as a culinary destination for chefs Saurav Banerjee (top right) and Pooja Dhingra (bottom right). Banerjee lists Ram Ashraya in Matunga for its idlis and rasam vada (left). Photos courtesy: Saurav Banerjee (self), Pooja Dhingra (self), Photo by: Francis Mascarenhas/indiapicture (idli platter)
Picks: Kolkata
Pappu Singh’s days usually entail keeping pace with the madness inside The Oberoi Grand’s kitchen in Kolkata. But once every week on his cheat day, the otherwise conscious eater frequents Sharma Dhaba in Ballygunge and Jai Hind Dhaba in Bhowanipore. This ritual is followed by a drive to Durgapur with his family; en route to which they relish local preparations in the dhabas that line the highway. “Dishes as simple as chicken kosha (chicken curry), phulkopir singara (cauliflower samosa) and lyangcha (a deep fried chana-based sweet) are some of my favourites along the Burdwan road,” Singh writes over email. Kathi rolls at Zeeshan in Park Circus, mutton biryani at Arsalan, chicken bharta at Amber, sumptuous Bengali staples at 6 Ballygunge Place and desserts at Patisserie by Franziska are, Singh reckons, some other Kolkata must-visits.
Picks: Chennai
Chef Regi Mathew is big on authentic flavours drawn from remote corners of Kerala—a pursuit he incorporated in his gastronomic venture of Kappa Chakka Khandari— first in Chennai, then in Bengaluru. For its very simplicity, Nair Mess, an unassuming Malayali joint, is one of Mathew’s all-time favourites. Despite its two storeys, the restaurant located on a narrow street opposite M. A. Chidambaram Stadium is easily missable by first-timers. The place has a distinct aroma of coconut oil, which engulfs your senses before you can even scan the room; when you do, you realise it is full of cricket fans on a match day and regulars, including rickshaw drivers, feasting on authentic South Indian spreads served on fresh banana leaves. The chef strongly recommends trying out their fish fry and omelletes.
When in Chennai, chef Regi Mathew (bottom left) recommends trying out South Indian delicacies (bottom right) served on a banana leaf; Calcutta-style mutton biryani (top left) is a must at Arsalan in Kolkata, suggests chef Pappu Singh. Photos courtesy: Pappu Singh (self), Regi Mathew (self), Photos by: John Elk III/Alamy/indiapicture (banana leaf), Indiapicture/indiapicture/Dinodia Photo Library (biryani)
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The five-day annual revelry that engulfs Kolkata come October is upon us—Durga Puja, when the City of Joy shakes itself out of sweet slumber and embraces cultural frenzy. Folks have begun to wake up to the sound of dhaak and in some greener pockets of the city, even the scent of shiuli, the night-blooming jasmine typical to puja season. Allowances have been made for greasy, if home-made, cutlets and kormas, and purchases that may not be strictly necessary. However, 2020 is the year of the pandemic, and autumn is not exempt. Amid fresh regulations from the Calcutta High Court that limit pandal entry to 45 people at one time, and a host of other precautions put in place by organisers themselves, Kolkata is embracing a puja markedly different from what it usually sees.
A writer and a photographer hit the streets on the eve of the festivities, ready to responsibly capture snippets from a city celebrating a pandemic Pujo.
Photo By: Arhan Sett
Barriers stemming visitors from entering the Shiv Mandir Sarbajanin Durga Puja in Kolkata’s Kalighat area had its desired impact of crowd-control two days before puja officially kickstarts, a time often hijacked by savvy pandal-goers to get a headstart. While the occasional devotee or enthusiastic family stopped by the pandal now and then, the street remained largely unoccupied through the afternoon.
Photo By: Arhan Sett
This year, South Kolkata’s Shiv Mandir Sarbajanin Durga Puja sports a theme centred around Satyajit Ray’s 1960 movie Devi. In the Ray masterpiece, the protagonist, Devi, channels a powerful, rebellious and indomitable spirit. For the committee members, it is this feminine fire of the Goddess that will protect us from the evils of coronavirus.
Photo By: Arhan Sett
From right to left: Nikhilesh Sen, Shaib Mondal, Shubhash Mondal and Tapan Das take a break from setting up Durga Puja hoardings across Southern Avenue lanes. Donning masks and shields, they indulge in some adda (tête-à -tête) under the mellow October sun.
Photo By: Arhan Sett
The Barisha Club Durga Puja’s ‘Migrant Durga’ throws light on the plight of migrant workers in India, particularly in the wake of the nationwide lockdown that marked the early months of the pandemic. Created by artist Pallab Bhauik, the details—a shirtless baby boy propped on her hips, and two girls on either side—hark back to the poignant picture of the mass displacement that had plagued the lives of many such mothers who had to walk hundreds of kilometres home amid confusion and scarcity. If the goddess has been re-imagined as a working mother, resolute to protect her clan, Saraswati and Lakshmi seem to have found representation in the young daughters, both of whom carrying their tell-tale vaahans (carrier animals): a swan and an owl.
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Puja eshe gechhe. Puja is here.
Even in a year marked by the ravages of pandemic, some tell-tale signs of the Bengalis’ annual autumnal revelry have survived. The fleeting whiff of urban shiluli (night-flowering jasmine) had long cheated its way into Kolkata’s ashen air, soft white blooms leaving a trail across the sidewalk for early joggers. Residents have made peace with truncated shopping lists, and neighbourhoods across the cultural North and the swanky South are people-ready in their jazzy make-up of rum, romance, and Rabindra Sangeet. But will there be people?
As of now, the answer is yes, in limited numbers. Celebrations in West Bengal, already muted by the soaring numbers of active COVID cases, was reined in legally earlier this week by a last-minute decision of the Calcutta High Court that declared pandals all across the state to be “no-entry zones” for visitors. Relaxing the diktat soon after, it has currently set the limit at 45 people (to enter) at a time. Little wonder then that organisers are racing to keep pace with the latest regulations, most insisting that their safety and sanitization protocols have been beefed up to the max. Barriers, five metres from the smaller pandals, and 10 metres from the larger ones, have been set up to avoid overcrowding and in turn, risk of exposure to the virus. As it stands, a handful of volunteers and the priest will be the only constant inside pandals this time—for everyone else, the rule is to space out, and keep moving. Although a scramble for those at the helm, the decision has been welcomed by many in Kolkata, which as Bengal’s corona epicentre has seen 72,341 cases and 2,038 deaths until now in the month of October.
So how different is puja in the times of pandemic? Hear from the stakeholders in this dance of caution and celebration.
A peek at Durga in a Kumartuli workshop. Photo By: Sangita Pal/Shutterstock
Pandal-hopping is synonymous with Durga Puja. Kolkatans, especially, are known for descending on the streets for all five days of the festival, walking—nay, gliding—in a collective, pulsating stream, from one pandal to the next. Maddox Square, Hatibagan, Northern Park, Bosepukur, College Square are just some of the grand old pandals across the city whose routes are inevitably chock-a-block at the oddest of hours during peak festivity.
However, under High Court’s stern gaze, many have resorted to a reassuring mix of virtual meets real-time celebration. For South Kolkata’s Mudiali Club Pujo, the very theme this year is dayitva, or “responsibility”. The signs of their attempt at the same show on the road leading up to the pandal. Ring-sized circles are drawn at two-metre distances from each other. Barriers, heavily guarded with volunteers and security stand firmly outside the makeshift enclosure housing the goddess who stands on a red-velveted stage.
“Several metres away from the barricade, the volunteer and police encounters have booths which have been dusted with a chemical which prevents the spread of the virus, the same one that they are using in the IPL,” Sumit Shaw, a committee member of Mudiali Club Pujo tells me on my secluded afternoon assignment days ahead of the big day. Gesturing towards the cameras hidden within the flounce of the decorations facing the stage, he says: “We were already focusing on virtual viewership this year. All ceremonies, prayers and festivities will be streamed live on our official Facebook page.”
Some pandals this year have been designed with all sides open, so that even people passing by it from a distance can have a glimpse of the goddess. Samir Ghosh, a committee member of Chetla Agrani Club, which in the past years has won hearts with themes like ‘Ulto Kolkata’ (presenting the city from an upside down perspective) and ‘Antaheen’ (where Ma Durga was carved out of antaheen, or timeless, mahogany wood) tells me that along with the design, they are making the “inside accessible to the outside”. Enter, technology. Much like in large-scale concerts, supersize screens will be set up outside the pandal to live-stream the minutiae of special ceremonies such as anjali and shandhi puja, so that people can be a part of the process, all the way—but from a safe distance.
The unofficial theme for Chetla this year? Hope. “It’s been strange, diving into preparations for puja knowing just how challenging it’s going to be this year. But the prayer is that the arrival of Ma Durga will take away some of the pain, loss and grief that’s been plaguing the world for the past many months. That she will bring with her health and prosperity and… hope,” Ghosh tells me.
***
The world famous potters’ quarters of Kumartuli in Kolkata house artisans credited with creating the most diverse and detailed idols of Maa Durga and her children. Photo By: Abir Roy Barman/Shutterstock
Kumartuli, Kolkata’s iconic potter’s quarter, is a flurry of activities this time of the year. Durga idols in all shape, size and colour are brought alive, the final touches of her big, soulful eyes mirroring the magic force that will course through the city in a few day’s time. In all the stunning variations of the pratima, one can bet on a few certainties. The wig on Mahashashur’s head may range from well-groomed to unruly, but it’s almost always a tumble of black curls. Just like Ganesh, one of Durga’s children (Lakshmi, Saraswati, and Kartik being the others), can be easily identified by his rotund belly, always a healthy shade of pink. But this year, uncertainties plague the close-knit community, most of them generatonal artisans dependant on this dedicated skill set.
Prodyut Paul, from Gora Chand Paul’s famous artisanal family—in the business of idol-making since 1950—tells me that this year has been catastrophic for Kumartuli artisans.
“We faced a terrible financial crisis in the beginning of the lockdown months in India, where we had to take some very hard decisions. I had announced that I would reduce the rate of the idol by 20 per cent for those who looking to book in advance, and only then, some orders started pooling in. But it was worse than I’d imagined. If an idol cost Rs 2 lakh, the person booking it could only pay Rs. 60,000. Say this person is a long-time customer, so I have to agree, but you can imagine what dire straits this left us in,” he says.
Paul, whose clientele extends to pujas abroad, had his international orders cancelled due to border closures and travel restrictions. As for local orders, profits were hard to come by. He doled out more examples of heavily slashed rates: “If it was an order for Rs. 2.5 lakhs, the buyers could somehow put together only a lakh. Those who’d purchase idols for Rs. 70,000-80,000 could not fork out more than Rs. 40,000. You have to understand that on an average, the cost of making the idol itself is Rs. 40,000. As a result of this, I had to let go of many orders that came my way,” he adds.
Paul’s concerns centre around the three workers in his shop. Are they following safety guidelines? Home-cooked meals and accommodations (so that they don’t have to venture out for any reason) are already in place, he says.The state government and local committees have pooled in to provide them with masks and sanitisers and regular oximeter checks are being conducted. When the lockdown was in place, Paul had to give instructions over calls—a maddening task for any artisan—and had to grasp at straws to even pay their salaries.Things have gotten a little better for the Kumartuli artisans after the lockdown was lifted. But, the larger struggle remains.
“Our annual income is pretty much derived from the sale of Durga idols that we make. And with the orders at bare minimum, where do you think that leaves us?” he asks.
***
On the final leg of the five-day festivities, Dashami, women don red-and-white saris, pray to the Goddess and smear each other with vermillion in a famous ceremony called ‘sindur khela’. Photo By: Nisha Dutta/Shutterstock
My friends, many of them camping indefinitely in Kolkata after the pandemic set off a work-from-home trend in their respective work cities, say that they’re leaning towards the baari’r pujas (smaller pujas, organasied at private residences/homes), and may be even the slightly more communal block/apartment ones. To the uninitiated, many baari’r pujas in Kolkata boast a lavish quality, no less in flair and flourish than their commercial cousins, and almost always with heavier history. The guest-list, not always restricted to known faces, is richer for passersby pouring in for that intimate feel, the close-quarter chant of mantras or the glory of standing only inches away from Ma Durga. This year, however, there is stricter control over entries, most residential pujas limiting attendance to that of close relatives and friends. If you’re lucky enough to be one of these people, baari’r pujas are definitely among the safer spots for an extra helping of that delicious bhog (food offering), or a power nap, to energise for the day.
“This year, we’re excercising tight control over who we invite into our home, only people closest to the family, and only those who we know have been social distancing,” says Haimanti Deb, whose family has been involved in a lovely baari’r puja in South Kolkata’s Dover Terrace for over 60 years.
The greatest sacrifice she’s making this year? Letting go of the dhaaki (percussioist specialising in dhaak, an Indian beat-instrument synonymous with the festival). He lives far away and would have to travel in local trains, a dangerous feat amid the swelling puja crowd. A medical facility near the Deb residence is conducting free rapid COVID-19 tests, so they plan to get the caterers tested before they enter. The family has also ensured private transport to wheel in the priest and is allotting separate time-slots for the few guests who have signed up for anjali (offering of flowers to the goddess)—three at a time, to practice social distancing.
Sindur khela (where married women smear each other with vermillion), dhunuchi naach (a special dance performed while balancing a burning a dhunuchi, a traditional incense burner) and bhashan (immersion of the idol) have also been scaled down at the Deb’s; lesser people will attend the ceremonies and participation is personal choice.
The ‘boron thaali’, which married women assimilate for ‘sindur khela’ contains betel leaves, betel nuts, vermilion, alta, incense sticks and sweets. Photo By: The Captured Creations/Shutterstock
What about cultural programmes, I ask, having been roped in to sing and dance for neighbourhood pujas since my pigtail days. “Going by government guidelines, cultural programmes, at least the ones taking place in public settings, are banned,” she tells me ruefully.
The rules, however, do not seem to extend to private buildings and housing. A friend living in Elgin Towers, a high rise near Calcutta Riverside, tells me that the society is buzzing with preparations for a socially-distanced puja, cultural fete in tow.
“We have all the chops in place—fashion shows, dance competitions, dandiya performances, a children’s band, and painting contests,” she laughs. However, a strict protocol banning outsiders into the society during the events has been put into place. Even among their own, masked social distancing is a must.
Hanging up my twentieth phone call, notebook brimming with fresh perspectives, I look out at the artisans hard at work on the little pandal sprouting in my neighbourhood. Are we ready for a pandemic puja? I guess we’ll have to wait and see.
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Out of Town Blog
Get the Apple Watch Series 5 at 5K less at Beyond the Box and Digital Walker
Manila, Philippines – Great news! A perfect gift this holiday! Beyond the Box offers an awesome deal on Apple Watch Series 5. Enjoy P5,000 off on Series 5 40mm and 44mm across all Beyond the branches. More ways to get your new Apple Watch S5 as Digital Walker joins in the promo! Digital Walker, a […]
Get the Apple Watch Series 5 at 5K less at Beyond the Box and Digital Walker
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things To Do in Veenendaal, Netherlands
Veenendaal Bucket List: Amazing Places to Visit in Veenendaal, Netherlands Veenendaal in the Netherlands is a hidden gem waiting to be found. While Veenendaal seems raw and underdeveloped, this city has plenty of things to offer for tourists, such as historical facilities, nature reserves, and entertainment hubs. Here are some of the things you can […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things To Do in Veenendaal, Netherlands
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Philippine Hotels in GCQ and MGCQ Areas may now be allowed to operate at full capacity
Manila, Philippines – Tourism Secretary Bernadette Romulo-Puyat announced today that the DOT has been given the authority, by the Inter-Agency Task Force for the Management of Emerging Infectious Diseases (IATF-EID), to determine the allowable operational capacity (up to 100%) for hotels, including staycation hotels, in areas classified under a modified community quarantine (MGCQ) and general […]
Philippine Hotels in GCQ and MGCQ Areas may now be allowed to operate at full capacity
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Smart powers BaiCon InFest for ‘Space Invasion’ 2020
MANILA, Philippines — Mobile services provider Smart Communications is championing content creation and creativity by teaming up with BaiCon InFest, for this year’s biggest gathering of content creators and influencers from Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao. Happening on October 23-24, 2020, via Facebook Live, this event gives opportunities for passionate Filipino creatives to connect with and […]
Smart powers BaiCon InFest for ‘Space Invasion’ 2020
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Surabaya, Indonesia
Surabaya Bucket List: Amazing Places to Visit in Surabaya, Indonesia Surabaya, the third-largest city of Indonesia, is one of the country’s cleanest and greenest holiday destinations. It is bountiful in friendly people and known for its delicious Java food. The city and its people played an important role during the Indonesian War of Independence against […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Surabaya, Indonesia
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Traralgon, Australia
Traralgon Bucket List: Best Activities and Amazing Places to Visit in Traralgon, Australia Traralgon is a bustling town situated in the east of the Latrobe Valley in Gippsland, Victoria state of Australia. It has something for everyone and an ideal place to spend a weekend away from Melbourne, Geelong, and other major cities in Victoria. […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Traralgon, Australia
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Vegan Food in Malaga, Spain
Finding Vegan Food in Malaga, Spain While Spain may not be known for its vegan cuisine, particularly those coastal towns that are famed for their seafood, growing numbers of the younger Spanish generation are increasingly interested in a new way of eating. Plant-based options have begun to pop up in many Malaga eateries, with some […]
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Sarasota, FL
Sarasota Bucket List: Best Activities and Amazing Places to Visit in Sarasota, Florida The world has gotten better at adapting to the new normal, and more flights and hotels are now available. This is probably one the most uplifting news for wanderers at heart. If you’re eyeing the US for your next trip, you won’t […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Sarasota, FL
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Miskolc, Hungary
Miskolc Bucket List: Best Activities and Amazing Places to Visit in Miskolc, Hungary Miskolc is a city located in Hungary’s northeastern region and is mostly known for its factories and industries. Besides the plants and factories, this city also has boundless beech-covered hills in its backdrop. Diosgyor Castle, which used to be a summer retreat […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Miskolc, Hungary
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Sintra, Portugal
Sintra Bucket List: Best Activities and Amazing Places to Visit in Sintra, Portugal Sintra is a beautiful Portuguese town found in the Greater Lisbon region along the Portuguese Riviera. It is considered one of the most charming cities globally, owing to its alluring palaces, enigmatic pathways, and historic fortifications. Its green mountainscape offers a breathtaking […]
Bucket List: Top 15 Best Things to Do in Sintra, Portugal
Team Out of Town
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
DOT welcomes Baguio City’s opening to guests from Luzon starting Oct. 22
BAGUIO CITY – The Department of Tourism (DOT) welcomes the decision of the local government unit (LGU) of Baguio City to open its doors to guests from Luzon, particularly the National Capital Region (NCR) and Regions 2 and 3, starting on October 22, 2020, noting that the anticipated influx of tourists will generate tourism activities […]
DOT welcomes Baguio City’s opening to guests from Luzon starting Oct. 22
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Travel Gadget: Fitbit Versa 3 and Inspire 2 Pre-Order launch
Motivation, inspiration, personalization — everything you need to just go. Manila, Philippines – If you’ve been looking for a new travel accessory or a perfect holiday gift, Fitbit Versa 3 and Fitbit Inspire 2 are now available in PH for pre-order exclusively at HomeOffice.PH for a limited time only! Meet the newest addition to Fitbit’s […]
Travel Gadget: Fitbit Versa 3 and Inspire 2 Pre-Order launch
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Paco Park and Cemetery Manila: Everything you need to know
Exploring Paco Park and Cemetery Manila Paco Park was built in 1820, and back then, the Paco Cemetery gave rest to the cholera epidemic victims. Ramon Solano y Lladeral, who was a Spanish Governor-General of the Philippines along with several bishops, and the historically known GomBurZa after the execution in 1872, was buried in the […]
Paco Park and Cemetery Manila: Everything you need to know
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
Out of Town Blog
Digital Walker Launches the new OnePlus 8T
How to pre-order the OnePlus 8T in the Philippines? Good News! OnePlus 8T, the newest addition to OnePlus’ line, will be available in the Philippines for pre-order tomorrow, October 17, 2020, at 11 AM exclusive at Homeoffice.ph. Customers can also enjoy a 2000 PHP worth of HomeOffice Loyalty Points Perks upon purchase, which they can […]
Digital Walker Launches the new OnePlus 8T
Melo Villareal
Out of Town Blog
There’s fresh air, and then there’s the pristine whiff of the Dhauladhar mountain range overlooking Dharamshala: so crisp and cool that each breath feels more rejuvenating than the last. It might seem peculiar to think of fresh air as an amenity, but if these pandemic times have taught us anything, it might be the most desirable detail for those considering vacations—and the 5-star Hyatt Regency Dharamshala is in no short supply. The resort is perched on a steep knoll that is spread across 6.5 acres: look up and you see imposing vistas of snow-capped peaks, look down, and you see the idyllic bustle of Mcleodganj.
The atmosphere is not one of smothering luxury; sure, the hotel is intent on pampering its guests, but the real charm is when the well-pressed doormen open up the grand double doors, unwrapping a landscape traversed by the likes of the Dalai Lama, whose letter to the hotel is proudly framed in the lobby. As you go exploring under the deodars, you’ll hear the babble of a Himalayan-fed stream playing melody against the chants of the hotel’s resident monks; the property melds itself to its environs, not the other way around, a comfort that is almost as refreshing as the air.
Hyatt’s Regency Suite frames the majesty of the region’s mountains. Photo Courtesy: Hyatt Regency Dharamshala
No matter which tier of lodging you choose—the hotel has about 80 rooms of varying comforts—each offers nods to elegant Himachali motifs: be they carved in the woodwork or weaved in the curtains. In the lobby, over complimentary high tea at McLeod & Co. Bakery—best taken in the library nook full of Kipling and atlases—you’ll see honeymooners, family vacationers, solo explorers, and students of Buddhism, all eager for recommendations from the staff. Just as the hotel bends to meet its environment, the staff, from the waiters to the managers, are remarkably well-versed in all there is to do inside and outside of the resort, a trait that guests openly recognise and appreciate.
Now, not everyone has the time to let that city stress immediately dissipate into the tranquil setting, as quite a few weekend travellers visit the hotel for much-needed respite. So the hosts are quick to recommend ways guests can fast-track that bliss. “The weather outside is a bit chilly, may we recommend the sauna following your morning walk? Many of our guests opt for a swim in our heated pool after a morning yoga session at the pavilion, would you like us to show you where it is?” And that’s just the tip of the proverbial snow-cap. Some guests choose to meditate with the hotel’s resident monks (when they aren’t on pilgrimage), book rustic picnics, or schedule a private movie night at the theatre.
Whether you wander the streets of Mcleodganj (bottom) or the hotel’s surrounding forest (top), true repose is just a stay away. Photo by: volobotti/shutterstock (street), Photo courtesy: Hyatt Regency Dharamshala (hotel)
THYM, the hotel’s flagship restaurant, serves up a variety of continental and Indian fare, well-executed plates for less adventurous eaters; but the real treats are the à la carte Pahari dishes replicating local tastes with meticulously sourced ingredients. Before the Hyatt Regency’s Head Chef took up this post, he made sure to scour the region for authentic ways of presenting regional produce and specialties. The result of this dedication is best elaborated by the Chhaa Gosht, a succulent, buttermilk-brined curry; Auriya Kaddu, Himalayan pumpkin simmered till tender with notes of mustard and jaggery; and Siddu, Kullu-style bread stuffed with poppy seeds, almonds, walnuts, green peas, and roast peanuts, then steamed to a pillowy texture. These are the types of dishes that simply refuse to be ordered once, lingering on your palate seductively.
The bar is no different. A combination of new-fangled mixology and old-world flavours inherent to the region are joined with a wizard-like touch at 2082—eponymously named after the property’s metre-height above sea level. Many of the in-house creations have their own signature scents derived from provincial herbs and flowers native to Himachal, offering an extra spritz of flavour to already inventive cocktails. Try the Himalayan Orchard, French cognac infused with fresh pear and distillate of vetiver (khus khus), kicked up a knock with traditional, fortified wine; or perhaps the Khawalag, apricot-steeped whiskey soused with roasted barley, Kangra black masala tea, and ghee charged with centella asiatica. Before the pandemic guests could snuggle up to the fire place adjacent to the bar and listen to live music, but now the crackle of flames will have to suffice until the virus is adequately contained.
While the hotel has no dearth of distractions, there are a number of convenient day trips that can be planned from the property. Those interested in exploring the culture of Dharmashala’s Tibetan community can visit craftsmen at Norbulingka Insitute, participate in a fire puja at Gyuto Monastery, or study ancient Tibetan lore and history at the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives. Public ceremonies and sermons hosted by the Dalai Lama at the Tsuglagkhang complex are rare (typically around three times a year) and highly sought after. Those able to attend should arrange a translator. Any travellers interested in the rich history of Tibetan medicine should schedule an appointment at Men-Tsee-Khang, the largest manufacturer of such medicine in the world.
The nearby HPCA cricket stadium, nestled deep in the Kangra Valley, might be the most picturesque sporting field in the country. Photo by: Julian Manning
A well-known nearby attraction is the HPCA cricket stadium, nestled deep in the Kangra Valley, which might be the most picturesque sporting field in the country. The stadium can typically be rented out to large groups eager to play with the stoic, shimmering Himalayas as their audience, but this pastime is temporarily suspended due to the pandemic. If you’re in the market for souvenirs, the pottery available at Andretta Pottery is outstanding. They produce some of the best terra cotta work in the country and classes here come highly-recommended.
These times have taught us a new meaning of comfort, and while the Hyatt Regency ticks many boxes from the old mould, its rustic surroundings look even better positioned to help travellers relax in the era of pandemic travel: a getaway as fresh as the air that drifts through its deodar trees.
To read and subscribe to our magazine, head to our web forum here or our new National Geographic Traveller India app here.
